At Artopolis, my favorite Greek pastry shop in Astoria, Queens, I made an impulse purchase. Normally the friendly workers would open the glowing display of honey-soaked melomakarona cookies or pull out a tray of pistachio baklava. But this little basket of cheese-filled goodies called to me.

I remember barely getting out the door before rewarding myself with the flaky moon-shaped pastry. The interior was slightly briny from feta blended with other cheeses. Herbs made it sing.