Greek Cheese Pie Adventure

At Artopolis, my favorite Greek pastry shop in Astoria, Queens, I made an impulse purchase. Normally the friendly workers would open the glowing display of honey-soaked melomakarona cookies or pull out a tray of pistachio baklava. But this little basket of cheese-filled goodies called to me.

I remember barely getting out the door before rewarding myself with the flaky moon-shaped pastry. The interior was slightly briny from feta blended with other cheeses. Herbs made it sing.

Greek cheese pie — tyropita — wasn’t an unknown. I loved Thea Cec’s classic spiral, which she’d make for special family gatherings. Local festivals frequently sold squares, and the appetizer was hard for me to resist when it appeared on restaurant menus. But if I was going to fiddle with phyllo dough, why not just make the Yiayia’s familiar spanakopita?

Eating that little pie in the street changed everything, though. That was the exact flavor I wanted to replicate, and it kind of drove me nuts. Perhaps the answer was hiding in my handed-down copy of “Hellenic Cuisine: A Collection of Greek Recipes” published in 1957 by the St. Helen’s Philoptochos Society and Saints Constantine and Helen Parent–Teacher Association in Detroit.

Reading through the recipes, you can practically smell the hairspray. There are gems like “frosted melon mold” and “barbecued sandwich loaf.” But what I appreciate about this cookbook is that there are multiple takes on popular dishes. Tyropita is one. You’ve got Cheese Pie #1, #2, and #3. So I began experimenting in my Queens apartment. None of it worked out, though. The filling was too thin, the flavors were off. Then life happened and the cookbook stayed shelved for a few years.

Later, in Denver, I went on a serious Greek cooking tear, mostly as a distraction from things that were falling apart. The more challenging and all-consuming the recipe, the better. There were several wins, but also bitter losses: barely edible stuffed grapeleaves, avgolemeno soup that split, and leftover galaktoboureko that turned soggy in the fridge.

Tyropita came around again, specifically Cheese Pie #2. This time, I was more confident about making modifications, most notably increasing the amount of cream cheese, dialing back the butter and cutting it with oil, and adding dried herbs. The bake time was too short as well. With more people to share these experimental cheese pies, I could refine the recipe until the flavor was just right. At last! Almost like eating next to the Ditmars Subway stop again.

One thing to keep in mind is that phyllo sheet sizes vary. For this recipe, I use the frozen Safeway brand, which is 13x17 inches. Depending on how intact the sheets are, you might need to use more or fewer than what the recipe says below. Normally I put in most of a one-pound box. You can melt more butter and cut it with oil to finish if you’re running out. Having a few extra crisp, buttery layers won’t hurt.

Before the pandemic, I’d cut tyropita into tiny party-sized servings as an appetizer for gatherings. These days we make a meal out of larger slices, a big salad with Greek lemon vinaigrette, and some white wine. Now I also raise a glass to the beloved bakery Artopolis, which sadly closed permanently in June. Gone but definitely not forgotten.

Tyropita
Adapted from “Hellenic Cuisine”

8 oz. chunk regular feta cheese (okay to use a little more)
8 oz. cottage cheese
3 – 4 oz. plain cream cheese, softened at room temperature
2 eggs, room temperature
½ tsp. crushed dried thyme
Generous 1 tsp. dried Greek oregano
Sprinkle of nutmeg
Ground pepper
Approximately ¾ lb. phyllo dough, defrosted in the refrigerator
6 Tbsp. butter
Several tablespoons olive oil OR vegetable oil

Put a paper towel in a strainer over a bowl and add the cottage cheese. Let it sit for 30 minutes at sea level or several minutes at altitude to remove some moisture first.

In a small saucepan, melt the butter, and remove the pan from the heat. Stir in several tablespoons of oil.

Beat the two eggs. Crumble the feta cheese with a fork.

In a large bowl, combine the cheeses and eggs, and mix until well blended. Add the herbs, nutmeg, and ground pepper to the cheese filling, mixing thoroughly. Set aside. Brush a 9x13-inch glass pan with butter and oil.

Preheat oven to 350°F.

Follow the spanakopita instructions to prevent the phyllo from drying out. Layer in around 8 sheets of phyllo dough, brushing each one well with the butter and oil mixture.

Pour in cheese filling and use a spatula to distribute evenly across pan. Fold in loose phyllo edges and then layer about another 6 to 8 phyllo pieces, again coating well with the butter and oil.

Score top with a paring knife to make four lengthwise strips and add vent holes along them with a fork — the same as spanakopita.

Bake for about 45 to 50 minutes. Check to make sure top isn’t getting too brown. Put on foil, shiny side up, if needed.

Let cool slightly and then cut into pieces with a sharp knife. Serve warm. Refrigerate leftovers and then rewarm them in the oven.