Springtime Savory Greek Leek Pie Adventure

Snow, again. Much though I’d normally rejoice at the coziness of flurries, this was not a welcome sight in April. Peering through the dining room window at giant flakes mounting on the tree limbs, outdoor chairs, and our battered grill, my exclamations startled the cat.

Forget about planting seeds and sipping rosé in the warm sun. Let’s go get the snow shovel.

On the bright side, the Greek cheese and leek pie from Rena Salaman’s “The Greek Cook: Simple Seasonal Food” felt just right. Even though it’s in the Spring section, this massive calorie-fest combines feta, Gruyère, thick Greek yogurt, butter and olive oil, eggs, onion, and leeks. Plus some dill. A squeeze of fresh lemon juice over the top to serve helps cut through the fat. Briny Kalamata olives and crunchy salad help balance it out as well.

After receiving the cookbook New York City, I’ve made “Electra’s cheese and leek pie” nearly every spring since. For the better part of a decade I used an inexpensive aluminum cake pan until finally investing in a springform pan. Actually, this pie was the first dish I ever made in that fancy pan...which turned out to be defective and leaked all over the oven. Grrr. A high quality springform pan does actually produce a better crust around the outer edge, but the simple cake pan version is still delicious.

All the alliums and dairy prompted me to call this pie by an unappetizing (but accurate) nickname until Guillaume convinced me to stop grossing out friends and family before they’d even had a single bite. Sorry about that, everybody. His much nicer (and still accurate) name for it: “tootopita.”

Over the years I’ve made some tweaks to this recipe, including measuring the seasonings, correcting a mistranslation in the flour amount, and clarifying ambiguous steps. The result is so good that one time I made two tootopitas for one party. Slices can be ideal mezze or, during a pandemic, a main course for two adults who can’t wait to be able to hug loved ones again. Toots and all.

“Tootopita”
Adapted from Rena Salaman’s The Greek Cook

1 yellow or white onion
4 Tbsp. salted butter
4 Tbsp. olive oil
2 large leeks, about 1 lb. total
1 C. (140g / 5 oz.) all-purpose flour
½ tsp. baking soda
½ tsp. salt
Freshly ground black pepper
3 large eggs
7 oz. Greek yogurt, ideally 2% fat
11 oz. feta cheese
4 oz. Gruyère cheese
Approximately 4 Tbsp. fresh dill (or a healthy sprinkle of dried or freeze-dried dill)

Clean, dry, and mince the dill. Cut the onion into thin slices. Remove the roots and the darkest green tops from the leeks. Cut each leek in half lengthwise, and rinse the sections very well in water to get out any grit and sand trapped inside. Drain them and cut into half-inch slices. Crack the eggs into a small bowl and beat them lightly with a fork.

In a medium non-stick skillet, melt the butter over medium-low heat and add the olive oil. Add the onion slices, stir to coat with the fat, and sauté for about five minutes or until the onion is translucent.

Lower the heat slightly, add the leeks, and cook for another 10 minutes or until soft. Set aside to cool.

Preheat oven to 350°F. Lightly grease a 9-inch round springform pan or aluminum cake pan.

Sift the baking soda and flour into a medium-sized mixing bowl. Stir in the eggs, then the yogurt, and the feta cheese. Now add the cooked and cooled leek and onion mixture.

Grate the Gruyère, and set aside about 2 tablespoons to put on top. Add the rest to the batter along with the minced or dried dill. Add the salt and several grounds of black pepper. Mix well.

Spoon the mixture into the prepared pan and level the surface. Sprinkle with the reserved cheese. Bake for 40 to 45 minutes or until golden. Allow it to cool down before removing the springform pan.

Serve with fresh lemon wedges and Kalamata olives. Tastes best when warm, but not hot.