My First Thanksgiving Adventure

In the Thanksgiving photo from 2005, I’m flanked by friends old and new as I tentatively slice into a gigantic roast turkey. We’re standing at the counter in a tiny New York City studio apartment. I’m sweaty and focused. It’s the moment of truth.

The kind man working at the grocery store in Harlem, where I bought ingredients for the dinner, had given me precise instructions. He said his wife roasted a turkey for church nearly every Sunday. Buoyed by that thought, I wrote down what he said on a piece of paper. Put melted butter over the skin, cover tightly, let it rest, don’t panic...

That was my first time roasting a turkey, hosting the holiday meal, and spending the day away from family.

I measured the narrow oven to make sure that whatever roasting pan I bought would fit inside. When the local butcher sold me the turkey, I gulped hard at the price but forked over the money. Back in my apartment, the bed and couch became extra seating. Food quickly covered every kitchen surface.

Most of my guests hailed from other countries. None of them knew quite what to expect. Neither did I. My Israeli neighbor offered up his kitchen counter space for the actual turkey carving. We needed it. After all that worry, the turkey actually turned out well.

I still think about wrestling with that giant bird in my tiny sink, searching for the packet of giblets — and failing. Much later, after dessert, I discovered the bag deep inside the carcass while carving leftovers. Oops.

To me, especially in the midst of everything going on now, Thanksgiving is about sharing food and being thankful for what you’ve got. The two things I was confident about making way back when were Yiayia’s spanakopita and do-ahead mashed potatoes, a holiday staple in our family.

Mom put the mashed potato recipe in a cookbook she created as a present for me years ago. Since then, I tweaked it slightly and added potato weight. The beauty of this recipe is, as the name suggests, the ability to prepare it in advance. Just spoon out the amount you want and bake it to get a crispy edge going. It can go in with any sides that need a 350°F oven.

This year the pandemic forced me to rethink my favorite holiday. I’m gripped with a new worry: protecting myself and loved ones from illness. In addition to organizing virtual get-togethers, I hatched a plan for contactless outdoor food exchanges with several friends. Do-ahead mashed potatoes are definitely on the menu. They’ll have to work in place of a hug, at least for now.

Do-Ahead Mashed Potatoes

5 to 5.5 lbs. Russet potatoes
6 oz. plain cream cheese at room temperature
1 C. nonfat sour cream OR low-fat plain yogurt
2 tsp. onion salt OR 1 tsp. dehydrated onion flakes + 1 tsp. garlic salt
¼ tsp. ground pepper
2 Tbsp. butter
Grated cheddar cheese OR paprika to finish

Make this dish at least 24 hours ahead of when you plan to serve it. You can leave it in the fridge for several days prior to baking.

Fill a large pot most of the way with water, allowing enough room for the potatoes. Rinse, pat dry, peel, and cut the potatoes into large chunks. Put the cut pieces into the pot of water as you go to avoid oxidation.

Boil the potatoes on the stovetop until tender, about 20 to 25 minutes. Test tenderness with a fork. Drain the potatoes well and then mash them. I usually do this in the pot.

Mix in the sour cream or the yogurt plus the cream cheese and spices. Beat these ingredients into the potatoes until smooth and fluffy, ideally using an electric hand mixer. Use a spatula to make sure all the potatoes get mixed together. Taste for seasoning. You might need to add as much as 1 teaspoon of table salt.

Put the mashed potatoes in a large container, let cool, cover, and refrigerate. When ready to serve, take out the desired amount and put it into a greased baking dish. Then follow the baking directions below.

Alternatively, if you’re planning to serve the whole amount, put the mashed potatoes in a greased 9x13-inch casserole dish and smooth the top with a spatula. Then allow to cool, cover, and refrigerate.

Try to get the potatoes closer to room temperature prior to baking. Dot the top with butter pieces and sprinkle the top with paprika or grated cheddar cheese. (I’ve topped it with both before and found that the flavor is better using one or the other.)

Bake uncovered for 30 to 45 minutes in a 350°F oven until a nice crust forms around the edges.

Refrigerate any leftovers.