Cold Sesame Noodles Adventure

This was the happy kind of hospital visit. As we raced across town, the car trunk full of our friends’ belongings, all I could think about was what food to make for them.

The summer sun beat down as we brought the suitcases and diaper bag across the shimmering parking lot. This was not the right time for casseroles or cake. My mind twirled. A new baby had just been born. His parents would need fuel.

Back in my kitchen, still amazed by getting to meet the adorable little guy, I opened the fridge door for inspiration. Something cool. During a previous summer, Guillaume and I had gathered the ingredients to try Deb’s recipe for takeout-style sesame noodles with cucumber. We finally found some tahini in the grocery store near the peanut butter.

The first few times we made the dish, I dirtied an embarrassing number of spoons making the sauce. It also seemed a bit too thick. The raw garlic tasted harsh to me. The peanuts didn’t add much. So we began tinkering.

The original serves four whereas ours is just the right amount for two servings. I’m also including instructions for pan-frying some tofu using a technique inspired by a recipe in “Smitten Kitchen Every Day.” Pressing the tofu first makes a huge difference.

While our friends were still in the hospital, I put containers of the noodles and the toppings in their fridge so they had something to eat after returning home with their newborn baby. And a congratulatory note from Auntie Alyssa.

Cold Sesame Noodles for Two

8 oz. rice noodles (we like these from Sempio)
Around 8 oz. extra firm tofu
Vegetable oil
1 chunk of English cucumber, thinly sliced, ideally on a mandoline
1 fresh lime
Fresh herbs such as mint, basil, cilantro, minced
Sesame seeds
½ Red or green bell pepper, chopped

Sauce:
1 Tbsp. tahini
3 Tbsp. soy sauce
1 Tbsp. sesame oil
1 Tbsp. rice vinegar or apple cider vinegar
½ Tbsp. simple syrup, white sugar, or honey
1 tsp. fresh grated ginger or ¼ tsp. pureed ginger
Salt
Garlic powder
Sambal oelek chile paste to taste (see note in the instructions below)

Wrap the tofu well in paper towels, set it on a cutting board, and rest a heavy pan or plate loaded with cans on top. I use a cast iron skillet. The longer the better, but press for 15 minutes minimum.

Meanwhile, prepare the rice noodles in unsalted water according to the directions. The Sempio ones foam up a lot so I usually reduce the heat to medium here at altitude. Taste a noodle for doneness before draining. Drain into a strainer with small holes, rinse well with cold water, and let the strainer rest over a small bowl. Splash the noodles with some sesame oil and stir to prevent sticking.

Slice the cucumber, chop the pepper, mince the fresh herbs, slice the lime in half, and get out the sesame seeds.

If you just purchased the tahini or haven’t used it in a while, it has probably separated. Stir it until uniformly smooth.

In a medium-large mixing bowl, use a tablespoon to measure out the tahini. Use the same spoon for the soy sauce, the sesame oil, and the vinegar. Add the syrup, sugar, or honey. Add the ginger, sprinkle in some salt and a little garlic powder. Use a fresh spoon to add the sambal oelek. Start with a teaspoon if you’re concerned about heat. Whisk sauce together. It will look broken at first but should meld after a few minutes. Taste and add a little more sambal oelek if desired. The sauce should be on the salty side.

Unwrap the tofu and dice it. Spray a nonstick skillet with vegetable oil (or add a small amount with a paper towel) and heat over medium-high. Add the diced tofu to the pan, sprinkle with salt, and dribble on enough soy sauce to coat the tofu. Keep the tofu moving around the pan so it browns evenly. Once the edges get nice and deep brown, transfer the tofu to a glass mixing bowl to cool.

Using tongs, put the rice noodles in the sauce bowl and mix gently until coated. Place a knot of the dressed noodles in two bowls. Add a pile of cucumber and pepper. Divide the tofu between the bowls. Garnish with the herbs, a sprinkle of sesame seeds, and extra sambal oelek if you wish. Squeeze fresh lime juice generously over both bowls to serve.

There are nearly endless variations on this dish. So if you want to add crushed peanuts, chopped scallions, fresh bean sprouts, grilled protein, or even pan-fried dumplings, don’t hold back. It’s hard to go wrong here. Leftover noodles should be refrigerated in an airtight container. Refrigerate the other toppings separately so they don't get soggy. Then assemble the bowl when you’re ready.